Zone 1 of 4
🔻 Low Intensity / Rest (≤ CP)
Recharge the battery — keep BR low, nervous system calm
| Marker | Value | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| Breathing Rate | ≤ 35 BPM | Slow, steady nasal flow — calm, controlled rhythm |
| Tidal Volume | Deep nasal-diaphragmatic | Minimal upper-chest lift |
| HRR₆₀ | ≥ 20 BPM drop | Full parasympathetic reset |
| W′bal | < 60% depletion | Aerobic reserve intact |
| RPE | 6–7 / 10 | Easy rhythm, control, calm focus |
Soft, silent nasal inhale — imagine lifting a feather without disturbing it. Smooth, long exhale.
↓ fR, ↑ efficiency. Nasal NO supports perfusion. Stabilises BR in low–mid 30s.
"Breathe like silk — soft, seamless, flowing."
4s nasal inhale, 6s nasal exhale — match your breath to the rise and fall of waves.
Longer exhale ↑ vagal tone, optimises O₂ delivery, naturally reduces hidden breath-holds.
"Ride the tide — in and out, steady as the sea."
Continuous nasal breathing, no breaks between breaths (~10–16 BPM).
Keeps CO₂ tolerance high, encourages diaphragmatic expansion. Diagnostic: can't stay nasal here → efficiency or anxiety issue.
"Close the circuit — nose in, nose out."
Imagine fogging and clearing a mirror with every exhale — slow, controlled, intentional.
Builds exhale control awareness; stabilises VT without fR spikes. Reduces unconscious breath-holds before movement.
"Mirror what you see — breathe with it."
Slow, steady exhale paired with foot pressure awareness, feeling contact with the rock or ground.
Re-centres attention on contact points, activates baroreceptors for calm, lowers HR.
"Root into the rock — breathe through your base."
Red Limiter Pathway
Resting BR ≥ 18? Do 5 min Feather + Tide Rhythm before climbing, then keep Nasal Circuit on easy ground.
Zone 2 of 4
🟡 Moderate Intensity / Near CP
Hold composure on the edge of sustainability
| Marker | Value | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| Breathing Rate | 40–45 BPM | Efficient diaphragmatic control, sustainable at RPE 8 |
| Tidal Volume | Strong diaphragmatic | Even 360° expansion |
| W′bal | ≤ 70% depletion | Effective pacing and recovery |
| RPE | ≈ 8 / 10 | Effort and breathing synchronised |
1–3 deliberate deep breaths to reset rhythm before entering a crux or after a shake.
↓ cognitive noise, ↑ VT for a few moves. Resets CO₂ drive, recentres pacing.
"Anchor your breath — steady, reliable, unshaken."
Diaphragm down, ribs wide — breath spreading 360° around the lower torso (north-south, east-west).
Maximises tidal volume under strain, increases postural stability without Valsalva.
"Let your breath be your compass."
Layered rib expansion: low ribs → mid ribs → upper chest, as if stacking bricks evenly around the torso.
Increases tidal volume without increasing BR. Prevents involuntary shallow inhalations and micro breath-holds.
"Stack each breath like a brick — solid and even."
Inhale/exhale in sync with hand and foot placements (e.g. 2 moves/inhale, 3 moves/exhale).
Locomotor–respiratory coupling. Reduces decision noise, extends time at CP without tipping over.
"Tick, tock — keep the breath on time."
Depth cue: "Breathe in and make yourself as big as possible. Exhale and make yourself as small as possible." Pairs perfectly with Breath Compass and Stacked Bricks.
Red Limiter Pathway
BR spikes early near CP? Use Metronome Breathing + Stacked Bricks to hold VT without overbreathing.
Zone 3 of 4
🔺 High Intensity / Above CP & RCP — Crux & Redline
Execute — then recover immediately
| Marker | Value | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| Breathing Rate | > 55 BPM (≈60+) | Chaotic or expressive breathing (grunts, screams, holds); high neural drive |
| Tidal Volume | Mixed / shallow chest | Tension rising, erratic chest breathing |
| W′bal | 70–85%+ depletion | Incomplete recovery between climbs |
| RPE | 9–10 / 10 | Noticeable strain → desperation if unmanaged |
Short, forceful diaphragmatic exhale ("huh!" or "sshh!") from the belly, then move.
↑ Intra-abdominal pressure → better power transfer, core stability. Replaces chaotic upper-chest panting.
"Snap the breath — power from the core."
Keep inhale completely silent while exhaling softly and in control.
Reduces arousal, prevents panic breathing, maintains stealth on delicate or balance-dependent moves.
"Quiet in, controlled out."
Firm exhale through pursed lips during a move — vocalised (grunt/scream) if it comes naturally.
Increases CO₂ clearance, narrows mental focus, boosts force output. +5 BPM adjustment per scream.
"Exhale power, don't bottle it up."
Quick boxer-style inhale/exhale bursts for 10–20 seconds during sustained high output.
Keeps VE high without slipping into uncontrolled hyperventilation.
"Punch out the breath — one move, one exhale."
70–80% inhale → 0.3–0.5s hold → short pursed-lip exhale while braced.
Combines core stability with controlled CO₂ clearance — avoids a full Valsalva for sketchy or high-force moments.
"Build your shield with the breath — strong, unbreakable."
Scream-Density Override
≥ 7 screams/min or >15s combined expressive load → RCP forced, +20% W′bal depletion multiplier, diaphragm fatigue risk. 1–3 screams can enhance VO₂/focus; high density drains fast. One scream per crux, max.
Zone 4 of 4
🌀 Recovery / Between Attempts
Restore W′bal, downshift the nervous system
| HRR₆₀ Drop | Status | Action |
|---|---|---|
| ≥ 25 BPM | Strong recovery | Exhale Dump + HRR Reset (maintain) |
| 15–25 BPM | Moderate | Emphasise HRR Reset + Grounding Breath |
| < 15–18 BPM | Limiter flagged | Prioritise recovery block: Exhale Dump, Puffafish, Rowing Breath |
Long, releasing sigh — let the shoulders drop. Full, unhurried exhale, "ahhh".
↓ sympathetic drive, speeds HR drop, clears residual CO₂ and tension. Best immediately after clipping or sending.
"Dump it out, start fresh."
Slow, coherent breaths at ~5–6 breaths/min while tracking HR drop in the recovery window.
Directly stimulates parasympathetic activation, improves HRR₆₀ and readiness for the next effort.
"Reset with the rhythm of your heart."
Inhale — pause — exhale — pause, like smooth oar strokes.
Enhances venous return, smooths ventilatory decline, supports lactate clearance.
"Row your breath — pull calmness back in."
Slow, deep belly breath with attention on contact points — feet, hands.
Anchors attention, reduces post-crux jitters, combines physiological recovery with mental composure.
"Root into the rock — breathe through your base."
Soft nasal inhale, lightly puff the cheeks, hold 0.5–1s, then a slow, controlled exhale through pursed lips. Repeat ×1–3 only.
Reduces sympathetic tension, releases jaw/face grip, normalises CO₂ after expressive breaths. A marker of high respiratory intelligence. Do NOT hyperventilate — it's a reset, not a pump.
"Puff → pause → pour it out."
Red Limiter Pathway
HRR₆₀ < 12–18 BPM? Do HRR Reset 2–3 min + Exhale Dump between burns.