🧠 Rate of Perceived Exertion & Breathing Rate
Respiratory frequency (fR) — also known as breathing rate (BR) — is strongly associated with perceived exertion (RPE) across various exercise modalities. For climbers, this relationship may be even more pronounced due to the physical and psychological complexity of the sport.
Perceived exertion is your subjective sense of effort, fatigue, or discomfort during movement. If you've ever used Strava, tracked a training session, or simply asked yourself "how hard am I working right now?" — you've already used RPE.
CP (Critical Power) ≈ 45 BPM / ~80–85% BRmax / RPE 8
RCP (Respiratory Compensation Point) ≈ 55 BPM / ~95–100% BRmax / RPE 9–10
BRmax for elite climbers estimated ~60–65 BPM during max effort
🔬 What the Science Says
"Respiratory frequency (fR) is emerging as a valuable measurement for training monitoring... more information can be gained from fR than from heart rate, VO₂, or lactate. It is strongly associated with perceived exertion across many exercise types and conditions."— Nicolò et al., 2017
In a separate study, Nicolò et al. (2016) found that fR — but not HR or VO₂ — tracks RPE over time regardless of exercise duration. This makes breathing rate uniquely valuable for real-time effort monitoring in climbing, where sessions vary enormously in duration and intensity.
In short: how fast you breathe may be the best non-invasive indicator of physical and mental effort in climbing.
🧗 Real-World Case Study: Adam Ondra vs. Štěpán Stráník
A fascinating case study compared Adam Ondra and Štěpán Stráník climbing the same 8b route using Hexoskin biofeedback (BR, VE, HR). Pranaclimb estimated tidal volume (TV) to reveal the full respiratory story.
"The route was relatively easy for Adam (9c climber), but for most Czech climbers — including Štěpán — it represents near-max difficulty."— Boček et al., 2018
Note: Hexoskin doesn't account for the nuances of breathing in climbing — grunts, breath holds, sighs, screams — which Pranaclimb's framework addresses through expressive breathing corrections.
| Climber | BR (BPM) | VE (L/min) | Est. TV (L) | Zone | Interpretation |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Adam Ondra | 14 | 35.03 | ≈ 2.5 | Below CP | Deep, relaxed, efficient. Very low internal load. |
| Štěpán Stráník | 36 | 67.97 | ≈ 1.9 | Near CP | Compensatory breathing. Moderate-to-high effort. Approaching threshold. |
What the Numbers Mean
✅ Adam Ondra — Below CP
⚠️ Štěpán Stráník — Near CP
🫁 Tidal Volume, VE & Respiratory Fitness
Tidal Volume (TV) is the amount of air moved in or out with each breath. Well-trained athletes maintain ventilation by increasing TV before increasing breathing rate. Near RCP, TV plateaus while BR spikes — meaning more energy is wasted on breathing itself.
- ✓Adam's high TV and low BR = aerobic efficiency and deep diaphragmatic breathing
- ✗Štěpán's lower TV and high BR = compensatory breathing under fatigue
- →Rapid breathing increases dead-space ventilation — wasted energy not contributing to gas exchange
— McArdle et al., 2014
🧘 Mental State & Breath Control
Adam's relaxed BR doesn't just reflect fitness — it reflects low psychological arousal. A calm, composed mental state is both a cause and a consequence of efficient breathing.
Štěpán's elevated BR may reflect not only physical effort but also psychological stress, anticipation, or inadequate recovery breathing between moves. This is where Pranaclimb's framework becomes most valuable — identifying whether elevated BR is a fitness limiter or a regulation limiter.
Breath awareness supports emotional regulation, precision, and pacing — all critical factors in climbing performance.
📊 Why It Matters For You
This real-world data clearly shows that breathing rate is a powerful indicator of effort and stress in climbing. It may be the most accurate non-invasive signal of both physical and mental load on the wall.
BR + RPE reveals your effort zone, fatigue level, and recovery status in real-time. Track before, during, and after climbing to optimise preparation, execution, and recovery.
Practical Applications
- 🫁Use RPE + BR tracking to estimate effort level and energy system stress in real time
- ⏱️Adjust pacing and rest intervals based on BR return to baseline
- ⛰️Estimate CP and W′bal in the field — no lab required
- 💨Train TV expansion with loaded breathwork, nasal drills, and CO₂ tolerance work
- 📊Monitor BR before, during, and after climbing for focus, efficiency, and recovery
"Train like an elite. Breathe like an elite."— Pranaclimb
References
- Nicolò A, Massaroni C, Passfield L. (2017) Respiratory Frequency During Exercise: The Neglected Physiological Measure.
- Nicolò A, Marcora SM, Sacchetti M. (2016) Respiratory frequency is strongly associated with perceived exertion.
- Boček J, et al. (2018) Adam Ondra hung with sensors. What makes him the world's best climber?
- Peake JM, Kerr G, Sullivan JP. (2018) A Critical Review of Wearables for Monitoring Stress and Recovery.
- McArdle WD, Katch FI, Katch VL. (2014) Exercise Physiology.
- Sheel AW. (2004) Physiology of Sport Rock Climbing.
- Baláš J, et al. (2014) Relationship Between Climbing Ability and Physiological Responses to Rock Climbing.